Two Rivers and Four Lakes: A Journey Through the Living Waterways of Guilin, the Oriental Venice

Water City Memories — The Flourishing Past of the Song Dynasty Moat

“A thousand peaks encircle the wilderness; a single river, embracing the city, flows.” This verse by Southern Song poet Liu Kezhuang captures Guilin as a jade-green water vein encircling the city. The precursor to Two Rivers and Four Lakes can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty when branch moats of the Li River were first constructed, and it expanded significantly during the Song Dynasty into a complete water system linking the Li River with inner lakes. In those days, merchant boats sailed from the river into the lakes; along the shores of Ronghu and Shanhu lakes, literati gathered, and luminaries such as Huang Tingjian and Fan Chengda moored their boats here, leaving behind a millennium of elegance amidst banyan shadows and bamboo whispers. This prosperous memory of “a city within the water, water within the city” remains the most precious urban imprint of Guilin.

The Road to Rebirth — From Siltation and Disconnection to a Revived Water Vein

The modern story of Two Rivers and Four Lakes is a living epic of “urban renewal and cultural continuity”:

The Scars of Silence (Mid-to-Late 20th Century): Due to urban development and siltation, the inner lakes became disconnected from the Li River. The water quality deteriorated, parts of the lake surfaces were filled in and encroached upon, and the spectacle of a “water-embracing city” faded away.

Awakening and Conception (1998): The Guilin Municipal Government proposed the Two Rivers and Four Lakes water system revival project, aiming not only for environmental remediation but also for restoring the millennial urban pattern of the Song Dynasty water city.

Water Diversion and Navigation (1999–2002): Silt was dredged, sewage intercepted, and water from the Li River channeled into the lakes. Nineteen bridges of diverse forms were erected, a 7.33-kilometer water tourist route was opened, and Shanhu, Ronghu, Guihu, and Mulong lakes were once again linked by shimmering waters.

A Spectacular Return (2002–Present): The Song Dynasty water city has since astonished the world with its signature “night cruise” appeal. It has not only been designated a national 5A scenic area but has also become an Eastern benchmark for urban water-system ecological restoration across the globe.

Dive Deeper: Explore more of China’s waterway rebirth miracles >> Gongchen Bridge in Hangzhou: A Timeless Gateway to the Grand Canal's Legacy

Nature’s Masterpiece — A Painted Scroll of Water Rhyme

The natural landscape of Two Rivers and Four Lakes is a flowing landscape bonsai, a breathtaking projection of Guilin’s karst peaks into the city’s heart.

Vivid Waters: The City’s Breath and Pulse

Four Lakes Like Jade: Each lake possesses its own temperament — Shanhu’s tranquility, Ronghu’s classical elegance, Guihu’s spacious serenity, and Mulong’s delicate grace. By day, a boat ride reveals crystal-clear waters, weeping willows adorning the banks, and distant mountains like ink washes; by night, it transforms into a luminous wonderland of flowing light and color.

The Secluded Taohua River: The Taohua River section retains a serene pastoral texture. Its gentle current mirrors the oleander and Chinese tallow trees along the banks. In the early morning mist, the river surface becomes a haze of mist and water, with the occasional bamboo raft breaking the stillness — the truest embodiment of ink-wash Guilin.

Borrowed Scenery of Renowned Mountains: As your boat glides across the lakes, look up to “borrow” views of Guilin’s landmarks — Elephant Trunk Hill, Solitary Beauty Peak, and other karst peaks. This visual experience of “city and scenery merging as one” turns every gaze into a perfectly composed landscape painting. Photography tip: On the Ronghu Lake section, use the ancient South Gate as the foreground and distant mountains as the backdrop to capture a layered sense of time and space colliding.

Verdant Trees: Living Heritage on the Banks

The Millennium Banyan Tree: Ronghu Lake is named after a small-leaf banyan tree planted in the Song Dynasty. Its crown spreads like a giant umbrella, aerial roots drooping like a beard, and it still flourishes today, serving as Guilin’s green guardian spirit. Beneath the tree, locals often gather to play chess or relax, imbuing the scene with vibrant life.

Lakeside Gardens: The Guihu Lake shoreline preserves numerous camphor trees, ginkgoes, and dawn redwoods. In late autumn and early winter, ginkgo leaves turn gold and dawn redwoods russet red, their reflections dancing on the emerald lake — the city’s most brilliantly colorful season.

Human Ingenuity — A Civilization Standing Across the Water

Two Rivers and Four Lakes is not merely a natural water system; it is a vast open-air architectural museum. Nineteen bridges span the lake surfaces, threading together Tang-Song elegance and exotic styles.

Sun and Moon Pagodas: The soulful landmark of Two Rivers and Four Lakes. The Sun Pagoda is a 9-story, 41-meter-tall copper pagoda, resplendent in gold — the tallest copper pagoda in the world; the Moon Pagoda is a 7-story, 35-meter-tall glazed pagoda, lustrous and translucent. Standing together in Shanhu Lake, after nightfall their golden and silver lights reflect upon the water, forming Guilin’s most iconic nightscape tableau. Visitors may ascend the pagodas to overlook the fusion of city and lake.

Ancient Bridge Collection: This is rightly a “World Bridge Gallery.” Yingbin Bridge draws inspiration from Paris’s Pont Alexandre III; Lize Bridge resembles the crimson suspension of the Golden Gate Bridge; Baoxian Bridge presents gracefully arched neoclassical elegance. Placed alongside the Song-style Mulong Bridge and the stone-arch classical Rongxi Bridge, each step reveals a different vista where antiquity and modernity, East and West, engage in a wondrous dialogue.

Ancient South Gate and Song City Wall: The Ancient South Gate on the northern shore of Ronghu Lake is the sole surviving city-gate relic from the Song Dynasty, its bricks and stones weathered, banyan roots coiling around it. The gate, framed by ancient banyan trees and reflected in the lake with the pagodas, evokes the deepest imagery of “Song City nostalgia.” At Mulong Lake, the restored Song Dynasty city wall and Mulong Pagoda transport you back to the golden age when “one river embraced the city.”

Pavilions and Towers: Zhiyin Terrace on Shanhu Lake is an excellent spot for gazing at the twin pagodas, while the Song-style architectural complex nestled against the hill beside Mulong Lake recreates the ambiance of a Song Dynasty waterside market street. Xiao and guqin gatherings are frequently held here, layering an ancient air upon the lake and mountain scenery.

Photography Secrets:

The prime night-shot spot for the twin pagodas is Zhiyin Terrace on Shanhu Lake’s northern shore, capturing the Sun Pagoda, Moon Pagoda, and their complete reflections in one frame.
For the Ancient South Gate with the millennium banyan, stand on the eastern side of the gate, using the ancient banyan as the foreground and the gate behind to achieve profound historical depth.
To photograph the bridge collection, take a boat and look up beneath Baoxian Bridge or Lize Bridge to capture their structural beauty.
Drones are permitted in some areas, but avoid crowded zones and flight-restricted zones, to capture the breathtaking bird’s-eye view of “a thousand peaks encircling the city.”

Five Must-Do Activities to Unlock a Complete Water City Journey

Indulge in a Luminous Dreamscape Water Banquet

Key Point: A Two Rivers and Four Lakes night cruise is the “soulful experience” upon arriving in Guilin! It is highly recommended to take the 7:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. sailings, bridging twilight to the dazzling full bloom of the night.

Experience: Board a boat and glide sequentially through Shanhu, Ronghu, Guihu, and Mulong lakes, passing beneath 19 distinctly illuminated bridges, and admire the nocturnal radiance of the twin pagodas, Ancient South Gate, and Mulong Pagoda. The entire journey lasts approximately 90 minutes, with every turn unveiling a flowing painted scroll.

Ascend the Sun and Moon Pagodas, Touch the Heart of Buddha

The Sun Pagoda, cast from copper, houses a Tang Dynasty bronze Buddha statue, and its summit offers a panoramic view of Guilin. The Moon Pagoda, made of glazed tile, holds a precious Buddhist exhibition of “Sun and Moon Shining Together” in its underground palace. An underwater passage connects the two pagodas, offering a unique experience of “traversing beneath the water.”

Create a Guochao Hanfu Fashion Shoot

Timing: The blue-hour twilight (20 minutes after sunset) is recommended, when the contrast between the sky and the lighting creates the most dreamy, cool-warm palette.

Locations: The bluestone-paved road in front of the Ancient South Gate, the railing at Zhiyin Terrace, and the Song-style stone steps by Mulong Lake.

Attire: Hanfu, qipao, or Neo-Chinese style clothing naturally harmonizes with the scenery. Hanfu rental and styling services are widely available in the scenic area’s vicinity and downtown Guilin.

Savor the Most Authentic Guilin Rice Noodles

Essential Tasting: A water city journey is incomplete without food. We recommend ordering a bowl of lu cai fen (marinated vegetable rice noodles) at a time-honored shop by Ronghu or Shanhu Lake — two liang of noodles topped with crispy roasted pork, marinated beef, sour bamboo shoots, and pickled beans. Mix well and slurp it down; this is Guilin’s most vivid dawn market flavor.

Snack Trails: Along the lakeside promenades, you can also discover osmanthus cake, water chestnut cake, and freshly pressed sugarcane juice — cool and thirst-quenching.

Stroll Along the Lakeside, Live Like a Local for a Day

Recommended Time: Early morning or afternoon. Starting from Elephant Trunk Hill Park, walk through Shanhu, Ronghu, the Ancient South Gate, and Guihu. Wander along the paths, observing locals practicing morning exercises and elders playing chess. This is not a “scenic spot check-in” but an immersion into the breathing rhythm of this landscape city.

Suggested Tour Routes

Half-Day “Dreamlike Night Cruise” Essence (For those pressed for time):
Arrive at Shanhu Lake at 4:00 p.m. → Visit the Sun and Moon Pagodas and Zhiyin Terrace (1 hour) → Walk to the Ancient South Gate at Ronghu Lake, waiting for the sunset glow to spill onto the ancient banyan (1 hour) → Enjoy a Guilin-style dinner nearby → Board the boat from Riyuewan Pier around 7:00 p.m. for the 90-minute Four Lakes night cruise → After disembarking, take a leisurely lakeside stroll and soak in the city’s nocturnal pulse.
IntoTravelChina Tip: This is a tight schedule. We recommend booking night cruise tickets in advance and allowing time for walking connections.

One-Day “Water Town Slow Notes” Panorama (Highly Recommended):
Start at Mulong Lake in the morning, admire the Song-style city wall and Mulong Pagoda, and feel the echoes of the Song Dynasty water city → Stroll along Guihu Lake’s promenade, appreciating the exotic charms of Lize Bridge, Yingbin Bridge, and others → Lunch near Ronghu North Road, then explore the Ancient South Gate and the millennium banyan → In the afternoon, ascend the Sun and Moon Pagodas, experience “Sun and Moon Shining Together” in the underwater passage, followed by afternoon tea around Shanhu Lake → Enjoy dinner at a lakeside restaurant at dusk → After nightfall, embark on the night cruise to witness the magical transition from day to night. After the cruise, continue your lakeside stroll or reflect on this water-rhyme-filled day in a small bar along East-West Alley.
IntoTravelChina Advantage: We can book the most suitable accommodation for you, arrange seamless activity connections, and provide detailed walking route maps and safety guidance.

Professional Guides: IntoTravelChina can provide you with a customized private itinerary, including dedicated guides, transportation, and activity arrangements, allowing you to explore deeply and worry-free. >> Submit Your Itinerary Request - Intotravelchina (No Fees, No Booking Yet)

How to Arrive: A Seamless Connection Guide

The Two Rivers and Four Lakes Scenic Area is situated in the heart of downtown Guilin, with an open layout and multiple piers for boarding, offering exceptional convenience.

From across the country, flying or taking high-speed rail to Guilin is recommended. Guilin Liangjiang International Airport is about 28 km from the city center, approximately a 40–50 minute ride by airport bus or taxi; Guilin Railway Station and Guilin North Railway Station are within the city, a 10–20 minute taxi ride to the main boarding piers.

Inner-City Transportation: The core area of Two Rivers and Four Lakes is highly walkable. Elephant Trunk Hill Park, East-West Alley, and Solitary Beauty Peak·Princes City can all be reached on foot. Taxis start at around 9 yuan, and Didi Express is also very convenient.

Boarding Pier Selection: The main night cruise piers are Riyuewan Pier (Shanhu Lake), Wenchang Bridge Pier (near the Taohua River mouth), and Zhiyin Terrace Pier. Please confirm the specific pier based on your ticket reservation and arrive 20 minutes early.

Important Reminders: Night cruise sailings are divided into time slots. Tickets for prime slots (approximately 7:30 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.) are especially tight during peak season. Independent travelers are advised to book online at least one day in advance; group or customized tours should confirm at least three days ahead.

Best Time to Visit

Two Rivers and Four Lakes can be visited in all four seasons, with the night cruise experience largely unaffected by the season, but the prime viewing periods are April to June and September to November.

Pleasant Spring and Autumn (April–June, September–November): The climate is mild with moderate rainfall, and the river water is abundant and clear. Misty spring days best capture the “ink-wash Guilin” atmosphere; clear autumn skies bring dazzling reflections of the twin pagodas alongside golden ginkgo and red dawn redwood leaves, forming a splendid tableau.

Summer Illuminations (July–August): Although days can be hot, it is the most pleasant season for a night cruise. The river breeze, mingled with light and water vapor, makes it a superb way to escape the heat by boat.

Winter Tranquility (December–February): With relatively fewer visitors, the night cruise offers a luxurious sense of having the scenery all to yourself. Should a rare mist or drizzle occur, the ancient charm of the Song Dynasty water city becomes even more pronounced.

Accommodation Options

Lakeside Lodgings (Scenery First):
Along the shores of Shanhu and Ronghu lakes are several star-rated hotels and boutique guesthouses. Open your window to see the twin pagodas or the Ancient South Gate, and enjoy the exclusive solitude of the lakefront before the crowds gather.

Experience: Living directly across from the scenery, watching the lights by night and listening to birds at dawn.

Drawback: Generally higher prices, and advance reservations are essential during peak season.

Suitable For: Travelers seeking ultimate convenience and atmosphere.

Heart of the City (Flexible and Excellent):
Hotels or guesthouses near East-West Alley and Zhengyang Pedestrian Street are a 5–10 minute walk from Shanhu Lake, offering abundant dining and shopping choices at excellent value.

Suitable For: Most travelers who wish to combine gastronomy, nightlife, and urban exploration.

Along the Li River or Near the Train Stations (Transport Convenience):
These serve well as transit hubs, conveniently connecting to your next journey to Yangshuo, Longji, and beyond.

IntoTravelChina Accommodation Booking Advice:
We strongly recommend planning and booking accommodation at least 2–4 weeks in advance, especially lakeside view rooms that are in high demand during peak season. By booking through us, you gain access to real-time room availability and can seamlessly package your lodging, night cruise tickets, and private transfers into one plan, often securing combined discounts and ensuring your itinerary flows flawlessly through the water-color nightscape. Tell us your budget and requirements, and we will match you with the most suitable “water city dwelling.” >> Submit Your Itinerary Request - Intotravelchina (No Fees, No Booking Yet)

Two Rivers and Four Lakes is the opening page to understanding Guilin’s urban soul. From this starting point, a more magnificent landscape scroll unfolds.

Join Hands with IntoTravelChina to Embark on Your Personalized Oriental Water City Night

The story of Two Rivers and Four Lakes is one of historical revival, water vein healing, and the Eastern wisdom of city-scenery symbiosis. IntoTravelChina specializes in crafting deep, personalized, and worry-free travel experiences across China. Our travel experts will:

Tailor-Make Your Itinerary: Design a perfect route encompassing Two Rivers and Four Lakes and the surrounding northern Guangxi attractions, based on your interests and timeline.

One-Stop Service: Secure night cruise tickets, lakeside boutique stays, station pickup and transfer, local guides, and cultural experience bookings.

Exclusive Experiences: Arrange private guided tours of the Sun and Moon Pagodas, photography companionship during the perfect blue-hour moments, and Song Dynasty-style Hanfu travel photography.

Let your Two Rivers and Four Lakes journey transcend mere sightseeing and become an immersive experience of landscape, city, and forest rebirth.

Start Planning Your Journey Now
Contact our professional travel advisors, and we will provide you with a customized itinerary and quotation within 24 hours. >> Submit Your Itinerary Request - Intotravelchina (No Fees, No Booking Yet)