The Urban Framework—A Map of Power and Life from Government Offices to Residential Lanes
The layout of Huizhou Ancient City clearly mirrors the functional zoning and hierarchical order of ancient Chinese prefectural and county towns.
- Huizhou Prefectural Government: The heart and highest point of the ancient city. This vast complex, reconstructed according to Ming Dynasty specifications, features grand scale and distinct axial lines. It comprises the South Qiao Tower, ceremonial gate, main hall, rear hall, and magistrate's quarters—making it China's only prefectural government office open to public access. Walking through its halls, one vividly senses the solemnity of the courtroom, the elegance of the inner quarters, and the intricate workings of ancient local administration.
- South Gate Tower and East Gate Tower: Landmark entrances to the ancient city. The South Gate Tower (also known as the “Twenty-Four Pillars”) features an archway at ground level and a pavilion above, representing a precious surviving example of Song Dynasty architectural techniques. Dongqiao Tower (Yanghe Gate), more rustic and imposing, serves as one of the main entrances to the ancient city. The stone-paved road within its archway bears deep ruts carved by centuries of cart and horse traffic, silently narrating past prosperity.
- Doushan Street, Zhongshan Street, and Dagujing Street: The arteries of the ancient city. These streets exist not for tourism but remain the daily living spaces of residents. Doushan Street is particularly renowned for its cluster of mansions belonging to Ming and Qing dynasty officials and wealthy merchants. Its winding bluestone paths flanked by towering walls and staggered horse-head eaves have earned it the title “Street of Huizhou Merchants' Mansions.”
Architectural Ciphers—The Art of Three Carvings and Ethical Symbolism
The essence of Huizhou architecture lies not only in its whitewashed walls, black-tiled roofs, and horse-head eaves, but also in its masterful carving artistry and profound cultural symbolism.
- Xu Guo Stone Archway: Hailed as “China's sole octagonal archway,” this National Key Cultural Relic Protection Unit was not erected for chastity or filial piety. Instead, it was specially commissioned by Emperor Wanli of the Ming Dynasty as a “Merit Archway” to honor the achievements of Xu Guo, a prominent cabinet minister from She County. Eight stone pillars enclose four sides, flanked by twelve stone lions adorned with profoundly symbolic carvings (such as “soaring dragons” representing the emperor and “auspicious cranes flying through clouds” symbolizing literary fortune). Its unique form, exquisite carvings, and revered status are unparalleled worldwide.
- Huizhou Garden and Tao Xingzhi Memorial Hall: Huizhou Garden integrates a memorial archway, ancient well, opera stage, and shops, serving as a miniature representation of Huizhou. The placement of the memorial hall for the people's educator Tao Xingzhi (originally Chongyi School) within the ancient city embodies Huizhou's tradition of respecting teachers and valuing education.
- Three Carvings in Residential Architecture (Wood, Stone, Brick): Step into any old residence (such as the Yang Family Compound or Fang Shizai Residence), and art meets the eye everywhere. Wood carvings on beams and window lattices (depicting scenes like “Hundred Children” or “Fishing, Woodcutting, Farming, and Reading”), brick carvings on door canopies and wall panels (featuring narrative figures and auspicious motifs), and stone carvings on column bases and railings (adorned with exotic flora, rare birds, and auspicious beasts)—all are exquisitely crafted, their themes embodying Confucian teachings and heartfelt aspirations.
Living Culture—Daily Life in the Ancient City's Lanes
The charm of the ancient city lies in its vitality. You might encounter elders basking in the sun by their doorways, chatting in the hard-to-understand Huizhou dialect; you might see street vendors selling fermented tofu and stone-pressed rice cakes; At dawn, the rhythmic sounds of laundry washing by the Lian River blend with morning exercise music; by dusk, the playful chatter of children returning from school echoes through the deep alleys. This is not merely a tourist attraction but a vibrant, living community—its most precious quality.
> Photography Tips:
For panoramic shots, the best vantage points are on Xiganshan Hill or Taiping Bridge across from the ancient town, capturing the sweeping landscape of the old city, Lianjiang River, and Piyi Mountain in the distance.
Xu Guoshi Archway is best photographed around noon on clear days, when sunlight clearly outlines its intricate structure and exquisite relief carvings.
Doushan Street in the early morning or after rain offers an exceptional setting for capturing humanistic and architectural ambiance. The wet cobblestones reflect the sky, while the high walls on either side create a profound sense of perspective.
The main hall of the Huizhou Prefectural Office, when framed with symmetrical composition, conveys the solemn grandeur of an ancient government office.
