A 21-Day Xinjiang Odyssey: From Northern Fairylands to Southern Deserts, A Journey Through China's Wild Heart

This is Xinjiang—a land where snow-capped peaks kiss desert dunes, where ancient Silk Road caravans still whisper in the wind, and where every meal tastes like a sunset. Over 21 days, we’ll traverse from the emerald lakes of Kanas to the mud-brick alleys of Kashgar, sleeping in yurt camps, hiking through alpine meadows, and sharing tea with Uyghur families. Expect fiery sunsets over the Taklamakan Desert, nomadic songs under star-strewn skies, and moments where the wind carries the scent of cumin and saffron.

Day 1-2: Urumqi — Gateway to the Wild

Morning: Arrive in Urumqi (yes, it’s pronounced “oo-roo-chee”) and check into The Silk Road Hotel near the train station. Start at the Xinjiang Regional Museum—don’t miss the “Loulan Beauty” mummy, a 4,000-year-old woman with red hair and a serene smile.

Afternoon: Wander the International Bazaar, a sensory overload of spices, silk, and Uyghur music. Haggle for doppa hats (traditional embroidered caps) and sip kumis (fermented mare’s milk) at Shule Kebab House.

Evening: Dinner at Bridging Years for crossing-the-bridge noodles—a steaming pot of chicken broth where you cook your own rice noodles, quail eggs, and mushrooms.

Pro Tip: Xinjiang uses Beijing Time, but the sun rises/sets 2 hours later. Adjust your watch to local “nomad time.”

Day 3-4: Urumqi to Kanas — Lakes, Forests & Wolf’s Tooth Mountains

Morning: Fly to Altay (2hrs), then drive 5 hours to Kanas. Check into Kanas Lake Resort—a cluster of wooden cabins with views of snow-dusted peaks.

Afternoon: Hike the Three Bays (Moon Bay, Immortal Bay, Dragon Bay), where the emerald waters of Kanas Lake reflect pine forests and nomadic yurts.

Evening: Join a Tuvan throat-singing performance—the haunting melodies will make your chest vibrate.

Avoid: “Free” horseback rides—locals will demand payment later. Negotiate prices upfront ($20/hour).

Day 5-6: Kanas to Hemu — Primitive Villages & Golden Forests

Morning: Drive to Hemu (1.5hrs), a Tuvan village where log cabins cling to hills like mushroom clusters. Rent a horse ($25/day) and ride to Hemu Viewpoint—sunrise here paints the birch forests gold.

Afternoon: Learn to make salma (Tuvan cheese) with a nomadic family. Don’t miss Hemu Bakery for baursak (fried dough balls) dipped in honey.

Evening: Sleep in a yurt ($30/night)—fall asleep to the sound of grazing horses and distant Tuvan songs.

Pro Tip: Pack a headlamp—Hemu has no streetlights, and the stars are brighter than your phone’s flashlight.

Day 7-8: Hemu to Urumqi — Return to Civilization

Morning: Drive back to Urumqi (8hrs). Stop at Koktokay—a national park with turquoise lakes and granite peaks dubbed “God’s Palette.”

Afternoon: Back in Urumqi, visit the Grand Bazaar for last-minute souvenirs (haggle for Uyghur knives and silk scarves).

Evening: Final meal at 1910 Railway Restaurant—a converted train station serving steam pot chicken (herbs, mushrooms, and chicken steamed in a clay pot).

Day 9-10: Urumqi to Turpan — Flaming Mountains & Grape Valleys

Morning: Fly to Turpan (1hr). Check into Jiaohe Ruins Hotel—a modern lodge with views of the Flaming Mountains (they really do glow red at sunset).

Afternoon: Explore Jiaohe Ruins—a 2,000-year-old city carved into clay cliffs. Climb to the Buddhist Stupa for views of the Taklamakan Desert.

Evening: Visit Emin Minaret—a 1757 tower built to honor a local hero. At night, join locals for Uyghur dance in the town square.

Avoid: “Free” tours of grape vineyards—they’ll pressure you to buy overpriced wine.

Day 11-12: Turpan to Kashgar — The Heart of the Silk Road

Morning: Take the night train to Kashgar (12hrs—book a sleeper car!). Arrive at dawn and check into Kashgar Old Town Inn—a restored Uyghur mansion with carved wooden balconies.

Afternoon: Wander the Kashgar Old Town, a maze of cobblestone streets where children play around takht (raised platforms) and elders sip tea. Visit the Id Kah Mosque—the largest in Xinjiang, with a courtyard of marble pillars.

Evening: Sunday Bazaar—the Silk Road’s last great market. Haggle for silk scarves, dried figs, and Uyghur knives.

Day 13-14: Kashgar to Tashkurgan — Pamir Plateau & Stone Cities

Morning: Drive to Tashkurgan (5hrs—permits required!). Check into Pamir Lodge—a Tibetan-style lodge with views of Muztagh Ata (the “Father of Ice Mountains”).

Afternoon: Visit Stone City—a 2,000-year-old ruins where the Silk Road once bled into Afghanistan. Hike the Golden Grassland—a sea of waist-high grass where yaks graze like living carpets.

Evening: Share naan and yak butter tea with a Tajik family.

Pro Tip: Carry po chai pills—the altitude (3,700m) hits harder than a Uyghur drumbeat.

Day 15-16: Tashkurgan to Kashgar — Return to Civilization

Morning: Drive back to Kashgar (5hrs). Stop at White Sand Lake—a milky-blue oasis where the Karakorum Highway meets the desert.

Afternoon: Back in Kashgar, learn to weave Afghan rugs at a local workshop.

Evening: Dinner at Tibetan Family Home—eat thukpa (noodle soup) and momos (dumplings) while listening to lingbu (Tibetan flute) music.

Day 17-18: Kashgar to Hotan — Desert Oases & Silk Road Secrets

Morning: Take the night bus to Hotan (12hrs—book a sleeper seat!). Arrive at dawn and check into Hotan Hotel—a modern lodge with views of the Taklamakan Desert.

Afternoon: Visit Hotan Museum—see the “Silk Road Treasure” exhibit, including Buddhist manuscripts and gold jewelry.

Evening: Wander Hotan Night Market—try roasted eggplant stuffed with lamb and sangzha (fried dough twists).

Day 19-20: Hotan to Urumqi — Farewell to the Wild

Morning: Fly back to Urumqi (2hrs). Spend the day at Urumqi Flower Market—buy dried roses for tea and orchid saplings (locals believe they bring good luck).

Afternoon: Final meal at Bridging Years—one last bowl of crossing-the-bridge noodles.

Evening: Departure—carry a piece of Xinjiang in your heart: a Tuvan throat-singing CD, a packet of kumis, or the memory of a Kashgar bazaar’s chaos.